19 June 2007

Introduction






Cheung Sam is generally acknowledged as the classic Chinese garment. It is a simple garment, essentially made from two pieces of cloth cut to follow the form of a woman’s body, with slits at the sides to allow for ease of movement. Many people are familiar with the garment but they have overlooked the quintessence of Cheung Sam, which is the Knot Button and Frog Fastener.


Knot Button and Frog Fastener were used to fasten the collar and lapel, not only for Cheung Sam but Chinese traditional women and men’s shirt. It’s just that the fastener for men’s shirt is simple while women’s has variation color and motive of fasteners. Knot button and frog fasteners are originated from thousands years of traditional Chinese knotting craft. The designs and compositions vary from the plain to complicate according to the evolution of men’s creativity. Traditional designs mostly refer to floral. They are designed to match the pattern of the fabric and the color of the braided trim on the collar cuff and hem.


Knot button and frog fastener may be a small feature but they should not be neglected. To me, it represents the soul of the Cheung Sam and gives a distinctive Chinese character. What inspired me is the creativity and skill of the couturiers to make large variation of motive for the fastener in order to match the pattern and color of the blouse. Nowadays we could not see old men wearing shirt with knot button and frog fastener but we found those on grandma’s generation. The craftsmanship of knot button and frog fastener is dangerously emerging. I visited my grandma’s elder sister who was a couturier last time, skilled at making knot button and frog fastener. In her ever first interview in life, she speaks about her good old days when she first learns how to sew. Check how I learnt to make knot button and frog fastener. Also, see how I am going to propagate the craftsmanship. Enjoy!

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